Jeep Creep Answers Off-Road Tech Questions
Have a Jeep tech question for the Jeep Creep? Send an e-mail with your name, vehicle year, model and a detailed description of the problem to Jeep Creep at editor@off-road.com . Dont forget to be as complete as possible with the description of your Jeep and its problems.
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Hot Four-Liter
I have a 2005 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 4.0L I6 with the 6-speed, completely stock. It is my daily driver with 60k miles. In the last two weeks I have noticed that the temperature needle goes over the 210 degrees (which has always been the normal operating temp) and creeps closer to about 230. On one trip on the interstate the temp shot up to 260. I changed out the thermostat and flushed the coolant; however, it is still doing this. Also, the heater is no longer working. I think that my water pump may be broken, but it is not leaking as normally happens when the bearing goes. And I dont just want to throw money at it until I find a solution. Can you offer any advice? I am very worried about this as I live the desert southwest and need it before the summer hits and can only take surface streets (very annoying). The hose that comes out of the radiator to the thermostat housing is very hot, and the hose coming from the engine block to the radiator is cool? I thought that the reverse is true.
Chido Chilango
Check the rigidity of the hoses. If theres much flex, change out the two radiator hoses. As you described, the top hose should be hot and bottom hose should be cooler (thats how the coolant flowstop to bottom). Check the fan belt, both tension and conditionit may be slipping. Id change it out and then keep the old one in your toolbox in case you snap a belt on the trail. Make sure you have good air flow through the radiator with no mud, bugs, etc., causing problems. Screw on a new radiator cap as well. After youve changed out these small thingsyoure not throwing money at the fix, these things should be changed regularly anywaycheck the fan clutchs operation (it should spin freely by hand with a cool engine but pull air when the engine is hot). Next check the water pump. Last but not least, youll want to make sure you dont have a leaking head gasket allowing water to get in the engine oil or exhaust gases getting into the cooling system. To check these final two items, youll need a good shop manual with a thorough troubleshooting section.
Head Gasket Kit - News
So I should have left the boost down at the 5 or 6 psi that the kit ships with. Instead I've been running the little turbo four-banger at 10-11 lbs of boost. It was just too much fun to dial down. Well the head gasket finally had enough.
Last but not least, you'll want to make sure you don't have a leaking head gasket allowing water to get in the engine oil or exhaust gases getting into the cooling system. To check these final two items, you'll need a good shop manual with a thorough
This project is based entirely on the installation of the Athena 144 kit, which includes a new cylinder and head, piston, wrist pin, circlips, and gasket set. We set out to build a woods ripper that YOU or anyone can build in their garage with a
49cc head gasket, torque? - Motorized Bicycle: Engine Kit Forum
I built a 49cc, w/NTTC carb for my Grandson. For reasons I won't go into, he removed the head and put it back on. I found a problem with the spark plug cap which I can fix. But can anyone tell me what to torque the head bolts to? And will I need to replace the head gasket or can it be reused? Given what he has done, anything else I should be aware of or watch out for? Your manual should say what to torque the head bolts to. Honestly, I never used a torque wrench to tighten my head bolts, and I never had a problem. What I did was go in an x pattern and tighten each one a little at a time, repeating the same pattern until all four bolts were as tight as they would go. You will find when you torque them that they won't go past the recommended amount of torque anyway. I know that from the one time I did use a torque wrench. Just loosen all of them, and with your fingers, tighten them until they just touch the head. After that, use a socket wrench and repeat the x pattern. The gasket is reusable. If you want, you can replace it with the spare that came in the kit, but the one that's on it should be fine. Most likely the head wasn't torqued to those specifications from the factory. If not use the head gasket and torque to above. I have used head gaskets more then once without leaking. Before you install the head, mill it. I have NEVER seen a true head. Using a piece of glass and 280 sand paper, sand gasket surface. Only remove what is necessary. The sanded surfaces will stick out apart from non sanded surfaces. Most likely the head wasn't torqued to those specifications from the factory. If not use the head gasket and torque to above. I have used head gaskets more then once without leaking. Before you install the head, mill it. I have NEVER seen a true head. Using a piece of glass and 280 sand paper, sand gasket surface. Only remove what is necessary. The sanded surfaces will stick out apart from non sanded surfaces.
Head Gasket Kit - Bookshelf
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Head Gasket